Powder Coating & Sandblasting FAQs

Fill out the quote request form with the part dimensions, quantity, color or finish, and when you need it back. You can attach up to five photos or a drawing (JPG, PNG, HEIC, WEBP or PDF). You can also call or text (858) 547-5970. For wheels we can usually quote while you wait.

Rims are available with same-day turnaround Monday to Friday. Other jobs depend on part size, quantity and how much prep is needed, and your written quote includes the timeline. If you are working to a build or install date, tell us up front so we can schedule around it.

Yes. Our own truck picks up parts from your shop, yard, home or jobsite anywhere in San Diego County and delivers them back once they are cured and inspected. See how pickup and delivery works.

Our shop is at 8745 Production Ave #A in San Diego (92121), near Miramar and Sorrento Valley. We work with customers across the county, including La Jolla, Mira Mesa, Poway, Del Mar and Chula Vista. See all of our service areas.

Monday to Friday, 7am to 3:30pm. Call or text (858) 547-5970, or send us a message anytime and we will reply the next business day.

Remove anything that is not metal or cannot take oven heat: rubber, plastic, glass, gaskets, seals, bearings and electronics. Let us know about any threads, machined faces or surfaces that must stay uncoated, and bring a drawing or mark-up if you have one. We handle the stripping, blasting and cleaning.

For metal that gets handled, weathered or driven on, usually yes. Cured powder is thicker and harder than liquid paint, so it resists chipping, scratching, fading and corrosion better. It does not run or sag, it covers edges and corners evenly, it contains no solvents, and overspray is recycled. Paint is still useful for parts that cannot go in a curing oven.

A properly prepped and cured powder finish can last many years outdoors, and commonly 15 to 20 years or more on well-maintained parts. What decides it is the prep underneath. San Diego salt air is hard on metal, which is why we blast every part to bare metal before coating instead of spraying over rust or old finish.

Steel, aluminum, galvanized steel, stainless and cast metals are the mainstays. Anything that holds an electrostatic charge and tolerates cure temperatures can be coated, including some glass, MDF and certain plastics. If you are not sure about your material, ask us before you rule it out. See what we coat on our capabilities page.

Any RAL or custom color, in gloss, satin, matte, textured or metallic. We can match a vehicle, a brand color or an existing building finish, and two-tone and custom masking are available. Tell us the color code or bring a sample.

Yes. Powder coating holds up to UV, moisture and temperature swings, which makes it a good fit for patio furniture, barstools, gates, railings and fencing panels. Rusted pieces can be blasted, restored and recoated for a fraction of what replacing them costs. See recent furniture and gate work in our past projects.

We don't coat over old paint or powder. New powder only bonds properly to clean, bare metal, so existing finishes, rust and scale are blasted off first. Coating over an old finish is the most common reason powder peels.

Yes. Damaged areas can be sanded or blasted and the part recoated and cured. Small chips can't be touched up the way paint can, because powder has to go back in the oven. For anything more than a small chip, recoating the whole part gives the most even result. Send us a photo and we will tell you which makes sense.

Wash with mild soap and water or a non-abrasive cleaner and a soft cloth, then rinse. Avoid harsh solvents, abrasive pads and pressure washing at close range. Parts near the coast last longer if they are rinsed regularly to remove salt.

Powder coated wheels stand up far better to road debris, brake dust, cleaning chemicals and weather. The finish is harder and more chip-resistant than paint, and it keeps its color longer.

Yes. Choose from gloss black, satin, candy colors, metallics or a custom match to your vehicle, and two-tone masking is available. See finished sets in our past projects gallery.

Yes. Tires, valve stems, TPMS sensors and wheel weights all have to come off, because the wheel is blasted and then cured in an oven. Call (858) 547-5970 before your drop-off to confirm how you are bringing the wheels in.

Light curb rash and surface scuffs are sanded and smoothed during prep, and deep pits can be filled. Bent, cracked or structurally damaged wheels need a wheel repair shop first. We will tell you at inspection if a wheel should not be coated.

Alloy, steel and aluminum wheels for cars, trucks, motorcycles and off-road vehicles. We also coat brake calipers, frames, chassis and other automotive parts.

Powder only bonds properly to clean, bare metal. Blasting removes everything that would stop it adhering and gives the surface a profile to lock onto. Skipping it is the number one reason coatings peel, which is why almost every part goes through our blast booth first. See our full prep process.

Yes. Sandblast-only service is available for parts you plan to paint, weld, inspect or finish yourself. Just tell us when you request a quote. Bare steel starts to flash-rust quickly, so plan to prime or coat it soon after pickup.

Sand, steel grit, glass beads or walnut shell, depending on the part. Harder media strips heavy rust and scale on steel, while softer media like glass bead is used on aluminum and more delicate parts. The media is also chosen to produce the texture you want.

Blasting removes rust down to clean metal, including inside pits. Deep pitting leaves low spots behind, and we can fill those during prep when a smooth finish is needed. If rust has eaten through the metal, the part may need repair before it is coated.

In our shop we blast everything from small brackets and wheels to gates, furniture, trailers, frames and large structural steel. If you are not sure it will fit, send us the dimensions.

Yes. We coat one-off capital project runs and standing orders that feed your production line. Color and finish are matched and held consistent from the first part to the last, and batch scheduling brings the per-piece cost down as volume goes up.

Yes. High-temperature tape and silicone plugs protect threads, bores, bearing seats, ground contacts and mating faces, so parts go straight to assembly when they come back. On commercial and industrial jobs we follow your drawings or mark-ups.

Yes. For steel that faces harsh outdoor or coastal exposure, a primer under the topcoat adds corrosion protection. Tell us where the part will be installed and we will recommend the system.

Yes, with the right prep. Galvanized steel can release trapped gas during cure and leave pinholes, so it needs different surface prep and cure handling than bare steel. Tell us the parts are galvanized when you request a quote so we plan for it.

Yes. We coat railings, gates, fencing, signage letters, ornamental metal, city benches and trash receptacles for contractors, property managers, sign shops and public agencies. See examples on our capabilities page and in our past projects.